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《经济学人》双语:非洲美食-用脚去皮的蝗虫豆(槐豆)
文/Irene-自由英语之路
【本篇内容简述】
【Para1】引入:描述发酵的非洲蝗虫豆(又称槐豆)的味道,干奶酪味,在漂白棕榈油中制作。
【Para2】iru调味品的复出:因为ayamase的菜,使用了它,从此在名扬四海。
【Para3】相关历史:十年前,没有ayamase这个菜,可能有ofada的菜,由糙米和辛辣的炸红辣椒炖牛肉组成。现在,有尼日利亚人地方,无论国内国外,都有这两种菜。
【Para4&5】iru的制作过程与流传:用一个例子说明。买黄色的种子煮12个小时,去糠秕,露出黑褐色的豆子,用脚掌去皮(如图),洗净,煮沸,烘干,盖上盖子,发酵一夜,用盐搓揉,最后卷成干叶,准备出售。一个重20克的小包装卖0.1美元。现在世界各地的货架上找到iru,各种各样冷冻的、新鲜的、粉末状的、干的等。
【Para6】结尾与评论:位于新奥尔良的著名尼日利亚厨师与美国公司合作,鼓励国内农民,也让国外的厨师同行们注意欣赏它的多功能性。
(文末的补充材料对理解本文有帮助)
标题:
Nigeria’s cuisine
Locust beans are back
The unlikely star of a Nigerian stew is taking the diaspora by storm
尼日利亚的美食
蝗虫豆(槐豆)复出了
这个尼日利亚炖肉中不太可能出现的调料正在海外侨民间传开
原文日期:2021年7月31日
Paragraph 1:
The fermented African locust bean, known in Yoruba as iru, has an unmistakable cheesy tang that hits you before you see it. “Iru isn’t just a flavour on the tongue,” says Ozoz Sokoh, a food blogger.
发酵的非洲蝗虫豆(槐豆:见文末补充资料),在约鲁巴被称为iru,有一种明显的干酪味,在你看到它之前就会让你大吃一惊。”Iru不仅仅是舌头上的味道,”食品博客作者Ozoz Sokoh说。
After an elaborate process of fermentation, the smell is essential to its flavour. Iru is further enriched once tossed in smoky, bleached palm oil.
经过一个复杂的发酵过程后,气味对其风味至关重要。Iru的味道在烟雾弥漫的漂白棕榈油中被进一步丰富。
Paragraph 2:
Long before Nestlé came to Nigeria with its Maggi bouillon cubes, iru was flavouring soups, stews and rice dishes.
早在雀巢带着Maggi肉汤块来到尼日利亚之前,iru就开始给汤、炖菜和米饭调味。
After independence the cube, with its monosodium glutamate seasoning, became more popular than iru, particularly in cities.
独立后,带有味精的汤块比iru更受欢迎,尤其是在城市。
But iru is making a worldwide comeback, thanks to a dish called ayamase which is packed with it.
但是iru正在世界范围内复出,这要归功于一种名为ayamase的菜,里面有它。
Paragraph 3:
A decade ago you would have been hard-pressed to find ayamase on a party menu. Instead you might have found ofada, a dish named after a town in southwestern Nigeria close to Lagos, the commercial capital.
十年前,你很难在派对菜单上找到ayamase。相反,你可能会发现ofada,这道菜是以尼日利亚西南部靠近商业首都拉各斯的一个城镇命名的。
It consists of unpolished rice and a spicy fried red-pepper beef stew. But now ayamase, the greenpepper rival of ofada, is wherever you find Nigerians, at home or abroad.
这道菜由糙米和辛辣的炸红辣椒炖牛肉组成。但现在,无论在国内还是国外,只要你能找到尼日利亚人,ofada的青椒竞争对手ayamase就会出现。
Paragraph 4:
Bilikisu Raji, who lives in Ibadan, another big city in the southwest, was taught to ferment iru by her mother-in-law. The iru enterprise is run by women because, she jokes in Yoruba, the men aren’t up to it.
Bilikisu Raji住在西南部的另一个大城市伊巴丹,她婆婆教她如何发酵iru。她在约鲁巴开玩笑说,iru企业是由女性经营的,因为男性无法胜任。
She buys the yellow-tinged seeds in the market and boils them for 12 hours in a cauldron. She removes the chaff. to reveal black-brown beans, peels them with the balls of her feet, washes them through a sieve, then boils them again.
她在市场上买了黄色的种子,然后在大锅里煮了12个小时。她把糠秕去掉。为了露出黑褐色的豆子,用她的脚掌将它们去皮,用筛子将它们洗净,然后再次煮沸。
Eventually she dry-roasts them and covers them with a raffia tray to let them ferment overnight. Finally she rubs the iru in salt, then rolls it up in dry leaves, ready to sell.
最后,她将它们烘干,并用一个拉菲托盘盖上,让它们发酵一夜。最后,她在盐中搓揉iru,然后将其卷成干叶,准备出售。
A small wrap weighing 20 grams goes for only 50 naira (an American dime). She survives on the patronage of foreign customers who buy as much as $25worth at a time to use in ayamase abroad.
一个重20克的小包装只卖50奈拉(0.1美元)。她依靠外国顾客的光顾而生存,这些顾客一次购买价值高达25美元的物品,用于国外的ayamase。
Paragraph 5:
Nowadays you can find iru on shelves across the world. Ms Sokoh, who has lived in the Netherlands and Canada, has seen it in shops everywhere. “You find frozen iru, fresh iru, powdered iru, dried iru on the shelves in-ways you couldn’t ten years ago,” she says.
现在你可以在世界各地的货架上找到iru。曾在荷兰和加拿大生活过的索科女士在各地的商店都能看到它。“你可以在货架上找到冷冻的iru、新鲜的iru、粉末状的iru、干的iru,这些都是十年前无法找到的,”她说。
Suffering from high blood pressure, she steers clear of stock cubes in favour of iru. “There’s definitely a saltiness without being sodium-heavy,” she says.
她患有高血压,倾向选择iru,可以避开肉块。“肯定有一种不含大量钠的咸味,”她说。
Paragraph 6:
To non-West Africans, iru is likely to remain a niche ingredient “like fish sauce”, sighs TundeWey, a popular Nigerian chef based in New Orleans.
对于非西非人来说,iru可能仍然是一种“像鱼露一样”小众的调味配料,位于新奥尔良的著名尼日利亚厨师TundeWey感叹道。
He has collaborated with an American company to sell iru in sleek jars, hoping to boost small farmers back home while getting fellow cooks abroad to appreciate its versatility.
他曾与一家美国公司合作,将iru装在光滑的罐子里出售,希望在鼓励国内农民的同时,让国外的厨师同行们注意欣赏它的多功能性。
Whether or not Western foodies catch on to this super-bean rich in probiotics, iru is fuelling Nigerian party-goers around the world.
不管西方的美食家们是否喜欢上了这种富含益生菌的超级豆子,iru正在为全世界的尼日利亚派对爱好者提供调味便利。
(恭喜读完本篇,英语阅读量511左右)
【补充资料】
关于文中的Locust bean 。(来源于网络)
用途:
1.增稠剂;稳定剂;乳化剂;胶凝剂。可赋予食品独特的奶油性质构,故通常用于乳制品和冰淇淋(防止乳清析出)。用于果酱、果冻和奶油干酪,可改善涂抹性能
2.用于肉制品、西式香肠等加工中可改善持水性能以及改进肉食的组织结构和冷冻-融化稳定性。用于膨化食品,在挤压加工时赋予润滑作用,并且能增加产量和延长货架期。用于面制品可控制面团的吸水效果,改进面团特性及品质。
纯品槐豆胶的制备:
将槐豆去皮、粉碎、过100目筛,即得槐豆胶。再将槐豆胶溶于纯水中,搅拌,静置,收集上清液,然后加入乙醇,析出白色絮状物,离心。再将絮状沉淀物溶于水后,加入乙醇,再次析出白色絮状物,重复两次。然后用丙酮、乙醚处理两次,真空干燥,可得纯品。
【重点词汇】(11个)
locust/lkst/a large insect that lives in hot countries and flies in large groups, destroying all the plants and crops of an area.
n. 蝗虫,蚱蜢
take by storm
强夺;完全征服
diaspora/daspr/the movement of people from any nation or group away from their own country.
n. (某一民族的)大移居
tang/t/A tang is a strong, sharp smell or taste.
n. 特性;强烈的味道;柄脚
toss/ts/
v. 抛,扔;掷
bouillon/bujn/a liquid made by boiling meat or vegetables in water, used for making clear soups or sauces.
n. (用作清汤或调味的)肉汤,菜汤
monosodium glutamate/mnsdim ɡlutmet/
味精(主要成分是谷氨酸一钠)
cauldron/kldrn/a large deep pot for boiling liquids or cooking food over a fire.
n. 大汽锅,大锅;煮皂锅;坩锅
chaff/tɑf/Chaff is the outer part of grain such as wheat. It is removed before the grain is used as food.
n. 糠;谷壳;无价值的东西
raffia/rfi/soft material that looks like string and is made from the leaves of a type of palm tree, used for making baskets , mats , etc. or for tying things.
n. 拉菲亚树;拉菲亚树叶之纤维
probiotics/prbai"tiks/
n. 益生菌,原生菌;促生素或益菌
【重点句子】(3个)
The iru enterprise is run by women because, she jokes in Yoruba, the men aren’t up to it.
iru企业是由女性经营的,因为男性无法胜任。
She survives on the patronage of foreign customers.
她依靠外国顾客的光顾而生存。
Iru is fuelling Nigerian party-goers around the world.
Iru正在为全世界的尼日利亚派对爱好者提供便利。
【重点词根】(1个)(来源于Tong)
tang来自古英语 tang,蛇信子,蛇的舌头,来自古诺斯语 tangi,尖的金属棒,尖叉,词源同 tongs,tough.因蛇信子散发强烈的刺鼻恶臭而引申该词义。
【本篇读后感】
我在筛选新一期文章的时候,我会把所有内容快速翻一下,看篇幅,看标题,然后在重点版块确定文章,特别留意文章插图和漫画。这期就有这篇文章的插图吸引了我,一位女士的脚踩在盆里,标题是美食,这画面感反差太强了,视觉和味觉结合在一起,有一股奇怪味道流出来的样子。再加上副标题Locust bean 蝗虫豆,在查阅资料之前,我以为外国人是把蝗虫做成美食,好奇心让我要深入了解这篇文章。
文章讲的是非洲尼日利亚美食,特色食品,不是吃蝗虫,而是一种豆子,可以用来调味,类似于味精等调味品。卖的价格低,一个重20克的小包装只卖0.1美元。名字叫做iru。文章最后一句话,iru正在为全世界的尼日利亚派对爱好者提供调味便利。
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